two tourist traps
Two so-called “gateways” to the high mountains are surrounded by coniferous forests and high pastures. Enclosed by peaks but not in their midst. It is tautological to talk of alpine meadows, as an “alp” is actually a high meadow. Mingling with the many who break their journeys here, I’ve enjoyed the transitory nature of these places for many years. Relaxing on a bench, flaneur-fashion, I tune in to the cosmopolitan buzz of many languages. I vicariously enjoy the frisson of people's anticipation at the start of their holidays in what will be, for some, unknown uplands. In their disorientated “demob happy” state, they seem oblivious to the dangers from the narrow pavements and through traffic. I understand. It recalls my excitement when, as a child, it was always summer when the family woke to the purr of the wood pigeon, before an early train. In those days it was to the then mysterious destinations of the English Lake District, North Cymru or even Weymouth.
Despite my familiarity with these locations over many years, the feelings are much the same. But the outward trappings of travel have modernised. From anorak niche to mass market, outdoor gear that was once the domain of army-surplus dealers has become corporatised. Modern mountaineers meander through both places as if in competition, sporting the latest label. I know someone who asks shops to either remove the logo or offer a discount for the free advertising. It's easy to spot the pristine boots and accessories purchased only this morning from the “hiking and adventure” shops that line the main roads. Some offer a discount on the inflated price if you sell your soul to the Devil by buying a membership card. Beware, they harvest your personal data. In between, restaurants, hotels, bakeries, shops selling coffee, gifts, art, jewellery, souvenirs or fast food jostle for space with cars and pedestrians. Hotel restaurants have verandas spilling over the pavements under wrought iron canopies, facades festooned with faux foliage and fairy-lights. With stone and timber, their rustic refinement evokes the mountains yet to come.
Both destinations are connected to main line railways. One has a single branchline through the village and a smaller railway, for children, next to the station. The other has large stations at both ends of the town. Both are situated in nations noted for their narrow gauge lines. Those in one are integrated within the public transport network. In the other they comprise isolated “heritage” lines. Similarities between the two nations include a comparable size and population density, the use of more than one official language with seemingly distinct dialects across different valleys. Similar could be said about their respective musical traditions. Both have a fondness for flag flying in assertion of identity, while one has developed flag throwing as a sport. Both have a culturally embedded longing for home in the hills, expressed as Heimweh in one country and Hiraeth in the other.
In the middle of both places, a large flat field sits beside the main through-road, dividing the village/town in two, providing an oasis of space and fresh air. One “green” is known as Höhematte, the other as Cae Llan. I haven't visited the former for twelve years, but even if I never return I can still enjoy its essence within the other, as I now live nearby. This is my version of minimal impact travel. The town is Interlaken, Switzerland. The village is Betws y Coed, Cymru. But other such pairings are possible: Kleine Scheidegg and Llanberis could be read similarly.
Away from and little known to the tourist gaze, there is another Betws y Coed and another Interlaken. Both were established by the Celts well before the 7th century, and had a long heritage of hospitality harking back to the monasteries. One hotel opened in 1323. Two hundred years ago, painters and poets popularised the picturesque in both places and kick-started mass tourism. The rest is psychogeography, at least for me.
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I look forward to your comments. Also it would be nice to know where you are in the world. Thanks for reading.